Ancient grains and modern grains, interactions with human organism and health. A scientific review of rare breadth has been published by a group of Italian researchers in the journal Nutrients. (1)
Genetic aspects
About 10,000 years ago, humans began the process of domesticating some wheat:
– diploids, such as monocot spelt(Triticum monococcum), and
– tetraploids. Such as Triticum turgidum, which has two domesticated varieties, dicocco spelt and durum wheat(Triticum durum). Among other things, dicocco spelt-from which modern varieties, moreover, grown in a limited proportion compared to other wheats, are descended-was the basis of the diet of the ancient Romans.
Soft wheat(Triticum aestivum, hexaploid wheat), on the other hand, has no wild equivalent, as it is derived from the hybridization of a domesticated dicoccus spelt with a known wild plant(Triticum tauschii).
Genetic improvement, carried out through crossbreeding and selection, has made it possible to introduce and stabilize some new genes and/or control sequences in their respective genomes. Nutritionally, the selection process over a long period of time has contributed to an increase in starch content at the expense of protein.
Modern cultivar selection criteria in the 20th century were geared toward increasing yields and increasing gluten strength (from <100W to >300W, to shorten time and optimize industrial processing). As a result, plant height was drastically reduced (from 150-180 cm to less than 50 cm) to concentrate the plant’s productive potential in the ear and avoid allurement.
Sensitivity to gluten, wheat, and glyphosate
Wheat is still the staple food in many countries. In recent years, ancient wheat cultivars have come to general attention as some clinical studies have highlighted their nutritional and health qualities.
The prevalence of celiac disease, over the past 70 years, is associated with statistical evidence–based on studies at blood banks, thus disregarding the increasing attention to diagnosis and theevolution of its methods–to the different quality of gluten contained in modern grains. (2)
Exposure to environmental and food pollutants , it is worth adding, is sure to impact the microbiome. As has already been reported in relation to pesticides and herbicides, including glyphosate for example.
The causal relationship between glyphosate exposure and the occurrence of celiac disease was among others demonstrated in the two MIT(Massachusetts Institute of Technology) studies cited in our free ebook ‘
GMOs, the Big Scam
‘.
Blood glucose and insulin
The glycemic response to the consumption of ancient whole grains such as spelt and rye is actually lower than that of other cultivars. Through down-regulation of key genes involved in glucose metabolic processes. (3) Other studies have shown that complete replacement of modern wheat with khorasan (also known in the Italian variety Perciasacchi) produced reduced glucose and insulin levels in both healthy individuals and those at high cardiovascular risk. (4)
Traditional varieties of hexaploid soft grains-such as ‘Verna,’ ‘Gentil Rosso,’ and ‘Autonomy B’-in turn produced significant reductions in blood glucose after eight weeks of trials in a randomized, double-blind clinical trial of 45 healthy individuals. (5)
Clinical and preclinical studies thus converge to clearly show the ability of ancient grains to improve glycemic responses, although an exact explanation of this phenomenon is still lacking. Meanwhile, it has been verified how-in addition to quality characteristics-the industrial processing processes to which grains are subjected can also affect the postprandial glucose response. (6)
Nutrition, health and trace elements
Some ancient grains (e.g. monococcus spelt, dicoccus spelt, and khorasan), according to concordant data in the literature, have higher carotenoid content, lutein in particular, than modern varieties. Some types of monocot spelt showed a lutein content from 3-8 times higher than modern soft wheat varieties, 2 times higher than modern hard wheat varieties. (7)
Polyphenols-which have a demonstrated role in the prevention of cardiovascular disease, diabetes and metabolic syndrome in particular (8)-were measured in 16 ancient and 6 modern wheats grown in the same location. The highest content of free flavonoids was found in five historical varieties (Andriolo, Gentil Rosso Mutico, Marzuolo D’Aqui, Sieve and Verna), the highest values of bound flavonoids were found in five vintage grains (Gentil Rosso, Gentil Rosso Mutico, Marzuolo D’Aqui, Marzuolo Val Pusteria and Inallettabile) and two modern ones (Eureka and Nobel). (9)
Wheat cultivars and the microbiome
The human microbiome is involved in several metabolic processes, in addition to its known role in gut-associated immune system homeostasis. One study, among the many cited, showed an overall positive effect of whole khorasan wheat on the microbiota, compared with modern whole grains. (10)
The microbiota of pigs fed for 30 days on a diet of spelt monocot (T. monococcum)-compared with modern standard wheat-has, on the other hand, been enriched with bacteria (genera Blautia, Faecalibacterium , and Oscillospira) that produce short-chain fatty acids, associated with increased metabolic and microbial diversity. Which suggests a strong prebiotic effect beneficial to the health of the intestinal ecosystem. (11)
Ancient grains, fatty liver syndrome and anti-inflammatory effects
A clinical trial involving 40 patients diagnosed withNon-Alcoholic Fatt y LiverDisease (NAFLD) deserves special attention. (12) Patients, in this randomized double-blind study, followed a wheat-based diet khorasan as the sole source of grain (pasta, bread, crackers, cookies)-that is, a diet of modern grains (pasta, bread, crackers, cookies), in the control group-for a period of three months.
The group fed exclusively khorasan products experienced a significant reduction in blood levels of alanine aminotransferase (ALT), aspartate amino transferase (AST) and alkaline phosphatase (three significant markers of liver function). In addition to decreased blood cholesterol levels, as well as significant reductions in the level of some circulating pro-inflammatory cytokines (such as IL-1ra, IL-8) and tumor necrosis factor alpha (TNF-).
A systemic anti-inflammatory effect was then associated with khorasan wheat consumption in a recent randomized crossover pilot study involving 20 professional or semi-professional athletes. (13) In this study, after four weeks of a khorasan wheat diet, there was a significant reduction in blood levels of MCP-1 protein, a pro-inflammatory chemokine produced by muscles under stress.
Blood cholesterol, irritable bowel syndrome
One of the most interesting studies compared the effects of a diet based on the use of three ancient soft wheat cultivars (Verna, Gentil Rosso and Autonomy B), compared to a diet based on a modern soft wheat (Blasco). (14) Forty-five healthy subjects were divided into groups fed wheat of each cultivar. And consumption of the ancient varieties significantly reduced levels of total cholesterol, LDL cholesterol and blood glucose.
There were no differences-in the aforementioned study, with respect to the parameters considered-between organically and conventionally grown grains. Therefore, it would be interesting to consider, in further research, the identity of the microbiota and the presence of antioxidants in organic grains in comparison with conventional grains.
Irritable Bowel Syndrome (IBS) was also the subject of a clinical trial on 20 subjects divided into two groups who alternately followed a khorasan diet and a modern grain diet. During the period of feeding khorasan products, patients with IBS showed a significant reduction in symptoms associated with reduced levels of pro-inflammatory cytokines. (15)
Conclusions and perspectives
Numerous studies converge on a better endowment of protein and micronutrients-as well as secondary metabolites and polyphenols-in ancient wheat. Clinical studies, performed on both healthy subjects and patients with diseases, also highlight their significant benefits in terms of anti-inflammatory and antioxidant activities.
The only limitation of these studies-most of whose credit goes to Italian researchers with predictably meager resources-is the small number of cultivars and sometimes even of analyzed subjects. ‘Nevertheless, considering the results of all available studies, it is possible to say that modern grains, where subjected to clinical trials, clearly show pro-inflammatory and pro-oxidant activity.’ (1)
‘To claim that ancient and modern grains are all the same is to deliberately ignore all clinical studies conducted so far.
The improved nutritional qualities of ancient grains should be encouraged by more effective control systems thatdiscourage fraud and speculation for the benefit of consumers who are increasingly willing and interested in purchasing health-beneficial foods.’ (1)
Dario Dongo and Paolo Caruso
Notes
(1) Enzo Spisni, Veronica Imbesi, Elisabetta Giovanardi, Giovannamaria Petrocelli, Patrizia Alvisi and Maria Chiara Valeri. (2019). Differential Physiological Responses Elicited by Ancient and Heritage Wheat Cultivars Compared to Modern Ones. Nutrients 2019, 11, 2879; doi:10.3390/nu11122879
(2) Kasarda, D.D. (2013). Can an increase in celiac disease be attributed to an increase in the gluten content of wheat as a consequence of wheat breeding? J. Agric. Food Chem. 2013, 61, 1155-1159.
Rubio-Tapia, A.; Kyle, R.A.; Kaplan, E.L.; Johnson, D.R.; Page,W.; Erdtmann, F.; Brantner, T.L.; Kim,W.R.; Phelps, T.K.; Lahr, B.D.; et al. (2009). Increased prevalence and mortality in undiagnosed celiac disease. Gastroenterology 2009, 137, 88-93
Lohi, S.; Mustalahti, K.; Kaukinen, K.; Laurila, K.; Collin, P.; Rissanen, H.; Lohi, O.; Bravi, E.; Gasparin, M.; Reunanen, A.; et al. (2007). Increasing prevalence of coeliac disease over time. Aliment. Pharmacol. Ther. 2007, 26, 1217-1225.
Catassi, C.; Kryszak, D.; Bhatti, B.; Sturgeon, C.; Helzlsouer, K.; Clipp, S.L.; Gelfond, D.; Puppa, E.; Sferruzzan, A.; Fasano, A. (2010). Natural history of celiac disease autoimmunity in a USA cohort followed since 1974. Ann. Med. 2010, 42, 530-538
(3) Thorup, A.C.; Gregersen, S.; Jeppesen, P.B. (2014). Ancient wheat diet delays diabetes development in a type 2 diabetes animal model. Rev. Diabet. Stud. 2014, 114, 1035-1045
(4) Sofi, F.; Whittaker, A.; Cesari, F.; Gori, A.M.; Fiorillo, C.; Becatti, M.; Marotti, I.; Dinelli, G.; Casini, A.; Abbate, R.; et al. (2013). Characterization of Khorasan wheat (Kamut) and impact of a replacement diet on cardiovascular risk factors: cross-over dietary intervention study. Eur. J. Clin. Nutr. 2013, 67, 190-195
(5) Sereni, A.; Cesari, F.; Gori, A.M.; Maggini, N.; Marcucci, R.; Casini, A.; Sofi, F. (2017). Cardiovascular benefits from ancient grain bread consumption: findings from a double-blinded randomized crossover intervention trial. Int. J. Food Sci. Nutr. 2017, 68, 97-103.
(6) Stamataki, N.S.; Yanni, A.E.; Karathanos, V.T. (2017). Bread making technology influences postprandial glucose response: A review of the clinical evidence. Br. J. Nutr. 2017, 117, 1001-1012
(7) Hidalgo, A.; Brandolini, A. (2014). Nutritional properties of einkorn wheat (Triticum monococcum L.). J. Sci. Food Agric. 2014, 94, 601-612.
Abdel-Aal, E.S.M.; Young, J.C.; Rabalski, I.; Hucl, P.; Fregeau-Reid, J. (2007). Identification and quantification of seed carotenoids in selected wheat species. J. Agric. Food Chem. 2007, 55, 787-794
(8) Durazzo, A.; Lucarini, M.; Souto, E.B.; Cicala, C.; Caiazzo, E.; Izzo, A.A.; Novellino, E.; Santini, A. (8) Polyphenols: A concise overview on the chemistry, occurrence, and human health. Phytother. Res. 2019.
(9) Dinelli, G.; Segura-Carretero, A.; Di Silvestro, R.; Marotti, I.; Arráez-Román, D.; Benedettelli, S.; Ghiselli, L.;Fernadez-Gutierrez, A. (2011). Profiles of phenolic compounds in modern and old common wheat varieties determined by liquid chromatography coupled with time-of-flight mass spectrometry. J. Chromatogr. A 2011,1218, 7670-7681
(10) Taneyo Saa, D.; Turroni, S.; Serrazanetti, D.I.; Rampelli, S.; Maccaferri, S.; Candela, M.; Severgnini, M.; Simonetti, E.; Brigidi, P.; Gianotti, A.(2014). Impact of Kamut® Khorasan on gut microbiota and metabolome in healthy volunteers. Food Res. Int. 2014, 63, 227-232
(11) Barone, F.; Laghi, L.; Gianotti, A.; Ventrella, D.; Saa, D.L.T.; Bordoni, A.; Forni, M.; Brigidi, P.; Bacci, M.L.; Turroni, S. (2018). In Vivo Effects of Einkorn Wheat (Triticum monococcum) Bread on the Intestinal Microbiota, Metabolome, and on the Glycemic and Insulinemic Response in the Pig Model. Nutrients 2018, 11, 16
(12) Dinu, M.; Whittaker, A.; Pagliai, G.; Giangrandi, I.; Colombini, B.; Gori, A.M.; Fiorillo, C.; Becatti, M.; Casini, A.; Benedettelli, S.; et al. (2018). A Khorasan Wheat-Based Replacement Diet Improves Risk Profile of Patients with Nonalcoholic Fatty Liver Disease (NAFLD): A Randomized Clinical Trial. J. Am. Coll. Nutr. 2018, 37, 508-514
(13) 7. Spisni, E.; Valerii, M.C.; De Fazio, L.; Rotondo, E.; Di Natale, M.; Giovanardi, E.; Posabella, G.; Bregola, V.; Stenico, V.; Sferrazza, R.E.; et al. A Khorasan wheat-based diet improves systemic inflammatory profile in semi-professional basketball players: A randomized crossover pilot study. J. Sci. Food Agric. 2019
(14) Sereni, A.; Cesari, F.; Gori, A.M.; Maggini, N.; Marcucci, R.; Casini, A.; Sofi, F. (2017). Cardiovascular benefits from ancient grain bread consumption: findings from a double-blinded randomized crossover intervention trial. Int. J. Food Sci. Nutr. 2017, 68, 97-103
(15) Sofi, F.; Whittaker, A.; Gori, A.M.; Cesari, F.; Surrenti, E.; Abbate, R.; Gensini, G.F.; Benedettelli, S.; Casini, A. (2014). Effect of Triticum turgidum subsp. turanicum wheat on irritable bowel syndrome: A double-blinded randomized dietary intervention trial. Br. J. Nutr. 2014, 111, 1992-1999. [CrossRef] [PubMed]
Agronomist, collaborates with the Department of Agriculture, Food and Environment of the University of Catania, Agronomy and Herbaceous Crops section. Researcher on ancient Sicilian grains.
Dario Dongo, lawyer and journalist, PhD in international food law, founder of WIISE (FARE - GIFT - Food Times) and Égalité.
