French consumer magazine
Que Choisir
analyzed 26 bottles of extra virgin olive oil sold in supermarkets. The result is not very encouraging.
7 brands of extra virgin olive oil also sold in Italy
The extra virgin olive oil samples analyzed by Que Choisir include those of 7 brands also available in Italian supermarkets.
Physicochemical and organoleptic tests (performed by panel test by a panel of accredited experts) ascertained the true nature of each extra virgin olive oil sampled.
Oleic acidity, value of peroxides, absorbance (oxidation coefficient measured in terms of UV absorption at wavelengths 232 nm, 270 nm), fatty acid ethyl ester content and wax content, in particular, allow us to assess the quality of the olives used and the degree of oxidation of the oils.
Other parameters were used to verify the absence of fraud, such as the presence of refined oils (so-called olive oil) or oils of different botanical origin.
Hunting for contaminants
Laboratory analysis also targeted the detection of three types of contaminants:
– pesticides and other agrochemicals (e.g., herbicides, fungicides) by multi-residual analysis of more than 600 molecules,
– mineral oils. Present in a wide variety of foods, they come from multiple sources of contamination throughout the production chain, from raw material to processing. Again, as in Ökotest‘s previous investigations, (1) MOSH (saturated hydrocarbons from mineral oils) and MOAH (aromatic hydrocarbons from mineral oils) were sought, the latter being suspected carcinogens,
– plasticizers. The analyses traced some 15 molecules, including phthalates (including DEHP and DBP, both classified as reprotoxic substances at the European level and classified as endocrine disruptors), adipates, and compounds belonging to other plasticizer families. (2)
Disappointing results
The vast majority of oils tested (16 out of 26 products, or 62 percent of the total) failed the test. Although the chemical values were close to legal limits, many products failed the organoleptic test for rancid taste. A defect also attributable to inappropriate storage or transportation conditions.
Among the products that are Italian and available in Italy, there are three failures:
1) Carapelli Bio Classico. score 7.5/20. Made from organic olives with EU and non-EU origin, packaged in a dark glass bottle, it was purchased in France at €7.80/l. Downgraded to virgin after tasting for rancid taste. With a ‘somewhat high‘ absorbance, indicating the beginning of oil oxidation. At least free of contaminants and foreign oils, except for slight traces of mineral oils.
2) Carapelli Classico. Score 7.7/20. Unlike the other versions (Vivace, Delicato) it is characterized by a lingering flavor between bitter and slightly spicy. Olive origin is EU and non-EU, dark glass bottle. Price €7.08/l. Downgraded to virgin after tasting for the defect ‘chômé-lies,’ a flavor characteristic of oil made from piled olives that have suffered an advanced degree of anaerobic fermentation. Free of contaminants and foreign oils, it showed slight traces of mineral oils.
3) Primadonna, distributed by LIDL. Score 7.7/20. From olives of Spanish origin, it is packaged in dark plastic bottles. It is among the cheapest products in the test, 4.99 €/l. Downgraded to virgin after tasting for ‘chômé-lies‘ and hint of ‘wet-earth’. Free from contaminants and foreign oils, showing only traces of mineral oils.
Extra virgin oils confirmed, albeit with some flaws
The other 4 extra virgin oil brands also available in Italy, however, have received confirmation of extra virgin quality. Albeit with annotation of some flaws.
4) Auchan. From French olives. The bottle of this extra virgin olive oil, Que Choisir notes, bears an old label, as it shows Nutri-Score D, while all olive oils are now Nutri-Score C. Packaged in 50 cl dark glass bottles, it costs €19.98/l.
He is the best in the test (score 16/20). On tasting, the fruitiness is of medium intensity, both green and ripe, while the bitterness and spiciness are light. Low oleic acidity is a sign of good quality olives before they are pressed. Fatty acid ethyl esters, markers of fruit fermentation, are indeed very low. Absorbance and peroxide values were also low, a sign of poor oxidation.
However, Auchan’s extra virgin is being criticized for the presence of small amounts of pesticide residues suspected of endocrine disruption. Mineral oils are present in trace amounts that are difficult to detect. No traces of plasticizers.
Other oils not downgraded
5) Carrefour Bio. Score 15.3/20. Made from a blend of EU and non-EU oils, it is packaged in dark glass bottles. The label reports Nutri-Score C. Price 6.35 euros/liter. On tasting it reveals one of the most pronounced fruity flavors, medium intensity and green. The bitterness and spiciness are well balanced. The absorbance and, to a lesser extent, the peroxide value (indicators of oil oxidation) are above optimal levels but in accordance with standards. Free of contaminants.
6) Gold Coast. Score 14.5/20. Made from 100 percent Italian olives for which the oil mill-now part of the French giant Avril-guarantees traceability from the fields to the oil mill to the bottling plant. It expresses the vigorous and inimitable taste of olives harvested when ripe, confirming the know-how of the historic Spoleto oil mill. At a price, in France, of 13.56 €/l.
On tasting, it is a fruity oil of medium intensity. Que Choisir recognizes it as one of the most pronounced fruity oils, among the 26 products analyzed, although there are oils with even more intense taste. Two parameters strongly related to oxidation, UV absorbance and, to a lesser extent, peroxide value, are higher than desired.
In contrast, the judgment on pesticide residues is critical because four different molecules have been detected-at very low levels, compared to legal limits-four of which one is suspected of reprotoxicity and another of endocrine disruption.
7) Monini Classico. Score 13.4/20. From olives with EU origin, it is packaged in dark glass bottles. Price €8.95/l. Less appreciated on tasting, the fruitiness is medium and ripe. Some problems, again, with contaminants. Small amounts of residues of two pesticides, suspected to be reprotoxic and in one case endocrine disrupting, were identified.
Also present are mineral oils in small amounts. According to the laboratory, it is a sign of possible contamination of a technical grade mineral oil (e.g., lubricating oil).
Marta Strinati
Notes
(1) Dario Dongo, Marina De Nobili. Extra virgin olive oil, dangers and flaws. Ökotest’s investigation. GIFT (Great Italian Food Trade). 11.6.19, https://www.greatitalianfoodtrade.it/sicurezza/olio-extravergine-d-oliva-pericoli-e-difetti-l-inchiesta-di-ökotest
(2) Dario Dongo, Luca Foltran. Phthalates and BPA in the human organism. GIFT (Great Italian Food Trade). 9.11.18, https://www.greatitalianfoodtrade.it/imballaggi/ftalati-e-bpa-nell-organismo-umano
Professional journalist since January 1995, he has worked for newspapers (Il Messaggero, Paese Sera, La Stampa) and periodicals (NumeroUno, Il Salvagente). She is the author of journalistic surveys on food, she has published the book "Reading labels to know what we eat".