Fresh cheese spreads and flakes, 18 products compared

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Fresh spreadable and flaked cheeses-as well as stracchino or crescenza cheese-often contribute to the summer diet. However, the idea of a light snack in some cases is illusory, as our market survey of 18 products shows.

The sample examined includes typical cheeses from foreign cultures, which are now widespread in Italy as well, and traditional Italian fresh cheeses. Only for the latter are you lucky enough to find small local organic productions, the value of which is incomparable with standard industrial productions.

Fresh and spreadable cheeses, the market survey

The survey was carried out on 18 fresh and spreadable cheeses available in Italian supermarkets. The table shows the trade name and price of each, as well as the nutritional values per 100 g of product, referring to:

– Energy intake (Kcal, or ‘calories’),

– fats,

– Saturated fatty acids,

– protein,

– salt.

The parameters adopted for the interpretation of nutritional values correspond to the Reference Intakes for Adults given in the so-called Food Information Regulation. (1) The daily reference diet for a 70 kg adult, according to these parameters, includes:

2,000 kcal,

70g total fat,

20g saturated fatty acids,

50g protein,

6g salt. NB: WHO recommends not exceeding 5g of salt per day. (2)

Food additives-especially emulsifiers, with possible negative interactions on microbiota and gut health, as noted (3)-are present in some products. In the tables we have colored in yellow those to be consumed in moderation, in green those without negative scientific evidence.

Nutritional profiles and additives, suitability for vegetarians

Nutritional profiles and potentially problematic additives also form the basis of the Yuka app’s evaluation, whose ratings of each product are reported. Recalling that the nutritional assessment expressed by Yuka is based on the NutriScore system. (4)

The suitability for vegetarians of the various products tested can be inferred from the presence of rennet, which is generally of animal origin. Therefore, in some labels its plant or microbial origin is specified, while in others it is absent. (5) Also incompatible with the vegetarian diet is Philadelphia Mousse, foreign to our selection, because of the gelatin (itself of animal origin, unless otherwise indicated. (6)

Fresh cheese spreads, the Philadelphia case

Philadelphia is one of the best-known fresh cheese spreads. Manufacturer Mondelez (Kraft-Heinz Group) describes it as the heir to U.S. fresh cheeses. Launched In Italy in the 1970s, with major advertising investments culminating in the early 1990s in the catchphrase commercial of the exotic Kaori (an American model of Japanese descent).

100g of this type of cheese is enough to reach half or the entire daily saturated fat ration for a 70 kg adult, depending on the products.

The ingredients of Philadelphia are always pasteurized milk, cream, salt and additives. Problematic thickeners, ça va sans dir. The Original version has been reformulated-in a ‘style’ declared ‘creamier’-with the same ingredients but less salt, more protein and calories. The Light version loses one out of three additives (the emulsifier of least concern), has less fat and more protein (so much so that it uses the claimsource of protein‘).

‘Style’ Philadelphia, saturated fat at will with one exception

The only product listed by Yuka as excellent, in this category, is Philadelphia Protein BenEssere. Due to the addition of a milk protein concentrate and the use of skim milk. Two nutritional claims, rich in protein and natural source of calcium.

The origin of the milk is never indicated. A legitimate shortcoming, until EU rules change, since Philadelphia is produced in Spain. Except for the Protein version, instead made in Germany.

The Philadelphia ‘style’ is also taken up by some Italian brands such as Coop and Nonno Nanni. Following are tables that in both cases, as in all others done only except Philadelphia Protein, abound in saturated fats.

PHILADELPHIA COMPARISON

Fresh cheese flakes, the Jocca mystery

COTTAGE CHEESEAnother fresh product introduced to Italy in the 1970s is Jocca. Highly valued because it is considered light and low in fat, it hides a mystery. The ingredients do not include rennet (of animal origin), but in the description of the production process it is mentioned instead. When in doubt, it should be considered unsuitable for a vegetarian diet.

Other products, with less fat and more protein, are better positioned on the genre. Overall, they are all considered excellent by Yuka. Of the first two best products, Coop’s, which is additive-free and has microbial rennet, seems preferable. The other, Exquisa, does a little better nutritionally, but does not forgo a thickener and animal rennet.

MILK FLAKES COMPARISON

Stracchino cheese and crescenza cheese

stracchinoStracchino and crescenza are traditional Italian fresh cheeses. Typical of Lombardy, they are now produced all over the peninsula. Of stracchino, the origin of the name is said to be related to the use of milk from ‘stracche’, tired cows, during the descent to the valley after the mountain pasture. Crescenza, on the other hand, should owe its name to the mass growth of the cheese during the short ripening period. For the sake of traditions lost in the Industrial Revolution, the two names are now understood to be synonymous.

Our selection includes ‘classic’ and ‘soft’ versions of stracchino and crescenza, in which additional milk fats (cream or cream cheese) are added to the traditional recipe-milk, milk enzymes, salt and rennet.

With the exception of the ‘light‘ versions of Certosa and Granarolo, 100g of these cheeses are enough to burn off half or the entire daily dose of saturated fat recommended for a 70 kg adult.

Marta Strinati

Notes

(1) EU reg 1169/11, Annex XIII, Part B. Adult reference intakes.

(2) Marta Strinati. Too much salt in the diet causes heart attack and cancer. Here’s how to make yourself safe. GIFT (Great Italian Food Trade). 3/22/17, https://www.greatitalianfoodtrade.it/salute/troppo-sale-nella-dieta-causa-infarto-e-tumori-ecco-come-mettersi-al-sicuro

(3) Marta Strinati, Dario Dongo. Some emulsifying additives alter the microbiota. Scientific study. GIFT (Great Italian Food Trade). 9/18/19, https://www.greatitalianfoodtrade.it/salute/alcuni-additivi-emulsionanti-alterano-il-microbiota-studio-scientifico

(4) Marta Strinati, Dario Dongo. Yuka, the app that helps you choose foods. Our test. GIFT (Great Italian Food Trade). 11/30/20, https://www.greatitalianfoodtrade.it/consum-attori/yuka-la-app-che-aiuta-a-scegliere-gli-alimenti-il-nostro-test

(5) Dario Dongo. Is cheese vegetarian? No. Here’s how to recognize it from the label. GIFT (Great Italian Food Trade). 4/22/17, https://www.greatitalianfoodtrade.it/etichette/il-formaggio-è-vegetariano-nì-ecco-come-riconoscerlo-dall-etichetta

(6) Goleador, is the gummy candy suitable for vegetarians and vegans? Attorney Dario Dongo replies. FARE(Food & Agriculture Requirements). 5.6.17, https://www.foodagriculturerequirements.com/archivio-notizie/goleador-la-caramella-gommosa-è-adatta-per-vegetariani-e-vegani-risponde-l-avvocato-dario-dongo_1

Marta Strinati
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Professional journalist since January 1995, he has worked for newspapers (Il Messaggero, Paese Sera, La Stampa) and periodicals (NumeroUno, Il Salvagente). She is the author of journalistic surveys on food, she has published the book "Reading labels to know what we eat".