Milk snacks are a constant in the grocery shopping of families with children. The shelf offerings are numerous and varied between ‘sweet cheese with (…)‘, ‘milk snack‘ and ‘yogurt with (…)‘. We selected 10 to examine their nutritional profiles and the appropriateness of ingredients, including food additives. Without neglecting the correctness-often controversial-labeling and consumer information.
Child-catching milk snacks
The packages are almost always decorated in a way that attracts children’s attention. Colorful puppets and sweepstakes to win toys are still the most widely practiced marketing tool-in some cases ‘predatory,’ according to UNICEF (2020)-to retain young consumers. This is followed by claims, aimed at adults, declaring the absence of undesirable substances or the presence of elements beneficial to growth and health. But what’s in it?
The broad category of ‘milk snacks’ includes very different products, although similar in appearance and placed in the same supermarket refrigerator space. At prices ranging from 6 to over 9 euros per kg (or liter) there are more or less creamy yogurts, mixtures of cream cheese and fruit or cocoa puree, and puddings. In some cases, chocolates are even added. In 4 cases vitamin D is added to support the immune system (see table).
The comparison
The comparison focuses on a few parameters:
– energy value, which in the 10 products varies between 54 and 154.8 kcal per serving,
– The amount of sugar, ranging from 6 to 20.9 grams,
– the addition of additives, which are very often problematic especially for children. Later we will look in detail at the additives in the 10 dairy snacks.
Consumer information is also considered. Having regard to the origin of the milk, which is not declared and is allegedly foreign in 7 out of 10 cases, as revealed by the ‘health stamp’ (see image below). As well as noting some omissions about the composition of the primary ingredient and claims of questionable legitimacy.
The various Frùttolo
The most famous and publicized brand for decades is undoubtedly Frùttolo. The cheese and fruit mix was launched in Italy by Nestlé in 1984. Today, it is marketed by Lactalis Nestlé Prodotti Freschi Italia Srl, a European joint venture between Lactalis and Nestlé specializing in ultra-fresh that also operates Zymil, Parmalat, Kyr, and Malù branded fresh products. In addition to the Mio brand, included in our selection.
Very different products actually travel under the name Frùttolo. From a light cream cheese mix to a sweetened yogurt. However, in all cases the indication of the components of the main ingredient is missing. Although the company website, but not even the label, highlights‘with live lactic acid ferments‘.
Another anomaly on the label is the designation ‘Light Fresh Cheese‘ justified by the words ‘20% fat calculated on dry matter’. (1)
Unsuitable for children under 4
The claims on the label speak for themselves. In the ‘standard’ Frùttolo, the absence of preservatives, dyes and gluten is boasted. In the ‘DUO’ version, which instead contains the controversial carmine dye (E120), as well as various thickeners, the claims diminish. In the three Frùttolo products, calories range from 54 to 155 per serving, sugars from 6 to 18g. Additives are always present and the origin of the milk is always foreign.
For younger children, Frùttolo with Smarties is unsuitable. In addition to the widespread presence of additives, it is the inclusion of chocolates that poses a serious risk. The company takes cover with an unreadable warning in small print in curved text that reads:
‘Young children (under the age of 4) have limited chewing ability could choke on small foods.’
A snack pudding
Consumers less accustomed to industrial extravaganzas might find the idea of consuming a pudding as a snack instead of dessert anomalous.
Yet ‘MUU MUU the milk snack with spots’ shreds all tradition. The product is from Cameo, of the German Oetker Group. Contains various additives, thickeners and artificial flavors. 132 calories and 14 g of sugar per serving. The origin of the milk is not specified, but the health stamp refers to processing in Germany.
Super Mario. Yogurt, sugar and chocolates
Super Mario Yogoloso is the milk snack from French multinational Danone. It is a sweetened yogurt combined with smarties-like chocolates. An imitation Frùttolo that adds Nestlé’s more emblazoned Smarties. The presence of ‘sprinkles’ involves quite a mix of additives, including the dreaded E120 dye. In addition to the choking hazard for toddlers, as mentioned above.
Again, no information on the country of origin of the milk. Instead, the ‘health stamp’ indicates processing in Spain. 153 kcal and 20.9 grams of sugar per serving.
Yomino of Granarolo
Fairly balanced nutritional profile (74 calories and 10g of sugar per serving) and fairly clear labeling-save the boasts of features common to the category to which it belongs-qualify Granarolo’s Yomino yogurt well.
Free of preservatives, dyes, flavorings and thickeners, the yogurt from the 60-year-old Bologna-based Granarolo Group is made from milk made in Italy. With the added plus of storability for 4 hours out of the refrigerator.
Plasmon, the yogurt for early childhood.
In keeping with tradition , Plasmon yogurt, a brand of the U.S. Kraft-Heinz Group, is additive-free. 99 kcal and 14g sugar per serving, with Italian milk and 4-hour shelf life out of the refrigerator. It is suitable for babies 6 months and older.
The baby food industry with a plant in Latina, Lazio, has no need for sweepstakes or cartoons on the label. It is the only one, in the sample always declared gluten-free, to carry the gluten-free label with the crossed-out ear of corn certified by AIC (Associazione Italiana Celiachia). And the quality of ingredients is guaranteed by Plasmon’s historic ‘Oasis in Growth’ standard.
Mio, the infant snack with additive
Another yogurt that advertises itself as suitable for early childhood feeding is Nestlé’s Mio. With 115 calories and 16g of sugars, it shows up in the label claim as ‘100% naturally sourced ingredients.’ However, it adds an additive, guar gum E412, to the recipe.
As with other products from the same multinational company, the composition of the yogurt is unknown, as is the origin of the milk, which is evidently foreign.
Actimel Play, fermented milk of unknown origin
Danone’s Actimel Play sweetened fermented milk is without dyes and preservatives, but with an additive (E331). It provides 71 calories and 11g of sugar per serving and contains added probiotics.
The origin of the milk, as usual, is unknown. The health stamp reports its origin, Belgium or Spain. Will keep up to 4 hours out of the refrigerator.
Nesquik shake, calories and sugar in abundance
Another milk-based snack with cocoa is Nestlé’s Nesquik Shake. The drink is quite caloric: 138 kcal and 18.2g of sugar per serving.
Without additives it will keep up to 4 hours out of the refrigerator. Origin of milk unknown.
A load of additives
Additives are added in 7 out of 10 products. Some of them-while authorized in the EU for their intended uses-are debated in the scientific community. With particular regard to their intakes in children, which, through different food matrices, may border on the acceptable daily intake (ADI) where provided.
The evaluation of additives is based on information reported by the Altroconsumo database and opinions of the European Food Safety Authority (EFSA). On the other hand, synthetic flavorings, which are present in two products (Frùttolo Maxi Duo and Super Mario Yogoloso), are unrated.
For two additives-guar gum and locust bean gum-an additional risk also arises: possible contamination by ethylene oxide, a mutagenic, carcinogenic and reproductively toxic pesticide at the center of a global emergency, as we have seen.
E461 methylcellulose
Methyl cellulose is used as a thickener, gelling agent, stabilizer, or even as a coating agent. It thickens liquids and forms a jelly when heated. It then allows the ice creams to melt more slowly. Its excessive consumption can cause intestinal discomfort such as diarrhea. It is added in Super Mario Yogoloso.
E412 – Guar Gum
In high doses, guar gum can cause intestinal discomfort (bloating, flatulence, laxative effect). Rare allergic reactions (mainly asthma and rhinitis) have been reported. As with locust bean gum, some studies suggest lower absorption of vitamins and minerals that would be trapped by the viscous network formed by guar gum polysaccharides. In contrast, other studies have suggested a positive effect on reducing blood cholesterol content. It is added in Frùttolo milk snacks and Mio creamy yogurt.
E410, locust bean gum
Cases of allergic reactions (mainly asthma and rhinitis) have been reported in connection with E410 consumption. At high doses of consumption they cause intestinal disorders (bloating, flatulence, laxative effect). Finally, some studies suggest less absorption of minerals that would be trapped by the viscous network formed by locust bean seed meal. Special attention should be paid to children and infants with acid reflux. In fact, these children should follow a specific diet and tend to be more prone to the aforementioned side effects (diarrhea, flatulence). It is found in the Frùttolo Maxi Duo.
E415 – Xanthan Gum
As with other gums, gastrointestinal discomfort can be caused by heavy consumption or by combination with other gums (bloating, flatulence, laxative effect). It is found in the Frùttolo Maxi Duo.
E120 – Carminic acid, carmine
This dye is obtained from cochineal(Dactylopius coccus costa), a parasitic insect of cacti. Scientific literature indicates some risks associated with allergenic extraction residues (insect protein materials). One can well do without it, and EFSA itself recommends limiting consumption in the face of the possible risk of respiratory and food allergies. E120 is also suspected of promoting hyperactivity in children. It is added in Danone’s Frùttolo Maxi Duo and Super Mario Yogoloso milk snacks.
E407 – Carrageenan
Several studies show a link between degraded carrageenans and the occurrence of colon cancer. The International Agency for Research on Cancer (IARC) classifies degraded carrageenan as a possible carcinogen (Group 2B). It is added in MUU MUU the milk snack with spots.
E322 – Lecithins
Lecithins are mainly extracted from soybeans. People sensitive to this allergen should avoid consumption of soy lecithins, as the possibility of them being contaminated by soy protein fractions cannot be ruled out. Sunflower lecithins are added in Frùttolo Smarties, and soy lecithins are added in Super Mario Yogoloso.
E100 – Curcumin
Curcumin is a natural yellow dye widely used by the food industry in soft drinks, confectionery or snack products. For children, the allowable daily intake (ADI) of 3 mg/kg body weight may be exceeded. It is found in Frùttolo Smarties and Super Mario Yogoloso.
E414 – Gum Arabic
As with other gums, rare allergies have been observed. Similarly, gastrointestinal discomfort can be caused by heavy consumption or combination with other gums (bloating, flatulence, laxative effect). It lies in Super Mario Yogoloso.
E141 – Complexes of chlorophylls and chlorophyllins with copper
The European Food Safety Authority (EFSA) considered that the toxicological data provided during the re-evaluation of E141 were too limited to define an acceptable daily intake (ADI). The Authority would also like to see chlorophyll additives better characterized, as some of their components are undesirable.
Chlorophylls prepared from alfalfa could be rich in compounds with allergenic and estrogenic potential, for example, and more generally the raw material is not regulated regarding maximum levels of possible contaminants, such as pesticides, mycotoxins, and other toxic elements (arsenic, lead, mercury, and cadmium), EFSA pointed out in its 2015 opinion. (1) E141 is employed in Super Mario Yogoloso.
E331 – Sodium Citrate
It is produced through the controlled fermentation of a fungus(Aspergillus niger). It is an acidity regulator commonly used in soft drinks. Its consumption can cause allergic reactions in people sensitive to mold, but such reactions are rare. However, it should be remembered that Aspergillus niger can produce mycotoxins.
This additive also damages teeth, especially among heavy consumers of carbonated beverages, children first and foremost. E331 is added in the milk snack Actimel Play
Marta Strinati
Notes
(1) Fructool, light fresh cheese? Lawyer Dario Dongo answers.. FARE(Food and Agriculture Requirements). 9/19/21, https://www.foodagriculturerequirements.com/archivio-notizie/domande-e-risposte/fruttolo-formaggio-fresco-leggero-risponde-l-avvocato-dario-dongo
(2) EFSA Panel on Food Additives and Nutrient Sources (ANS). Scientific Opinion on the re-evaluation of chlorophylls (E 140(i)) added to Food as food additives. European Food Safety Authority (EFSA), Parma, Italy 2015. https://efsa.onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/pdf/10.2903/j.efsa.2015.4089
Professional journalist since January 1995, he has worked for newspapers (Il Messaggero, Paese Sera, La Stampa) and periodicals (NumeroUno, Il Salvagente). She is the author of journalistic surveys on food, she has published the book "Reading labels to know what we eat".