The dogged pursuit of exotic superfoods sometimes makes us lose sight of the treasures that belong to our traditions and biodiversity. Such as ancient grains, nuts and hemp, to name a few. But so is rye. A cereal to be (re)discovered, from various perspectives.
Rye, history and cultivation
Rye(Secale cereale L.) is an ancient cereal of the Poaceae family, used as a food from the Bronze Age (3000-1200 BC), in Asia Minor. Its botanical characters are similar to those of wheat, from which it can be distinguished by the absence of the sickle-like appendages spanning the culm (instead typical of wheat and barley).
It is a resilient cereal, able to withstand extreme cold, with lower thermal requirements and a shorter growing cycle than others. Its cultivation is therefore favored in areas where agriculture is difficult and marginal, including on acid, sandy and lean soils. There where its yield exceeds that of barley and wheat, with which it also alternates. And it is among other things less prone to diseases and insect attacks than other grains.
Crops take place in the Northern Hemisphere only and are prevalent in cold ranges, at altitudes between 800 and 1000 m.a.s.l. or higher. The top producers are Germany (2.737 million tons), Poland (2.674), Russia (2.547) and China (1.332), out of a total of 13.734 million tons (FAOSTAT, 2017).
In Italy, rye represents a minority crop. In mountainous areas, in the Alps especially, according to tradition (Lombardy, Piedmont, Trentino). (1) In the last decade only 4200 hectares of land have been cultivated in the beautiful country. With the unexpected record of Calabria (1,400 ha), followed by Lombardy (800 ha, ISTAT). And a novelty, its rediscovery in Sicily, on the slopes of Mount Etna.
Uses of rye
The historical vocation of rye is the use of its flour–either alone or mixed with others, wheat especially–in the preparation of a dark bread. (1)
Rye bread differs from wheat bread in its distinctive and pronounced flavor, soft texture, better digestibility and shelf life. And so it is that in Calabria the use of its flour is also spreading on cookies, taralli and pizzas.
Rye malt-which is obtained by steeping germinated caryopses-is used in the production of beer, whiskey(rye beer and rye whiskey) and vodka.
A coffee substitute can also be made from the roasted seeds. The grain then finds use in feed production, and its by-products, like so many others, lend themselves to biomass energy production.
Nutritional and health properties
Rye flour has an average of 11.7 g per 100 of protein, 65 of carbohydrates, 2.3 of lipids, 14.3 of total fiber (including 3.58 of soluble fiber). With an average energy intake of 311 Kcal (1302 Kj)/100g. (2) The high content of dietary fiber such as arabinoxylan, fructan, β-glucan, and cellulose in its bread increases its sense of satiety, (3) thanks in part to the increase in stomach extension and the delay in its emptying. (4)
The glycemic index of rye bread-thanks to its extraordinary richness in dietary fiber, arabinoxylans in particular-is lower than that of other breads. And it is equally easy to predict its contribution to the control and reduction of blood cholesterol because of the presence of betaglucans. (5)
The cereal under consideration also boasts a significant supply of minerals, vitamins and bioactive compounds. To the polysaccharides different from starch in which it is rich several scientific studies attribute a favorable role in the prevention of cardiovascular disease, obesity and cancer. With the only caveat being to remember its unsuitability for consumption by individuals who are allergic to the individual grain or gluten intolerant.
Ancient Sicilian Rye
On the slopes of Mount Etna-in the municipality of Nicolosi, a small town in the province of Catania-the ‘black bread of Immanu‘ has been produced since time immemorial. A bread made from rye semolina, once popular especially in times of famine. Thanks to the hardiness (now called resilience) of this cereal, which is precisely capable of adapting to extreme soil and climate conditions.
The local variety of rye known by the name Irmana (syn. Immanu, Immana, Irmanu, Irmana, Jermanella) has been recovered in recent years, thanks to the efforts of the Serafica family, local agricultural entrepreneurs. And the approval process for its inclusion in the National Register of Conservation Species has just been completed. According to some sources, the plant was introduced to the Etnean territory by French Benedictine monks who founded the local monastery of San Nicola l’Arena. (6)
The ‘black bread of Immanu‘ was granted the De.C.O.(Denominazione Comunale di Origine) collective trademark in 2012 and was thus entered in the Nicolosi municipality’s register for the protection and enhancement of local products.
Short supply chain.
, cultured supply chain. All the better if organic, to promote biodiversity and counter soil degradation as well as contribute to climate change mitigation.
Dario Dongo and Paolo Caruso
Notes
(1) V. Compagnoni M. S.,Tesorelli Bonetti I., (1999). Rye, From fields to mill from flour to bread. Center for Alpine Studies Vallivo Valfurva Museum. Typographers in Compagnoni di Valdidentro (So), December 1999
(2) Cf. Crea (Council for Agricultural Research and Analysis of Agricultural Economics). Food composition table, at http://sapermangiare.mobi/tabelle_alimenti/000280/100/farina_di_segale.htm
(3) Isaksson H., Fredriksson H., Andersson R., Olsson J., Åman P. (2009). Effect of rye bread breakfasts on subjective hunger and satiety: a randomized controlled trial. Nutr J. 2009;8:39. doi:10.1186/1475-2891-8-39
(4) Forsberg T., Åman P., Landberg R. (2014). Effects of whole grain rye crisp bread for breakfast on appetite and energy intake in a subsequent meal: two randomized controlled trails with different amounts of test foods and breakfast energy content. Nutr J. 2014; 13: 26. doi:10.1186/1475-2891-13-26
(5) With the paradox that the aforementioned health claims-although referring to individual plant fibers-must come specifically authorized in relation to the matrix. Thus reg. EU 432/12, in Annex, authorizes health claims only for arabinoxylans derived from wheat endosperm and only for beta-glucans from oats and barley
(6) V. Gabriele Quattromani, Itinerario delle due Sicilie (Reale Tipografia della Guerra, Naples, first edition, 1837)
Dario Dongo, lawyer and journalist, PhD in international food law, founder of WIISE (FARE - GIFT - Food Times) and Égalité.
Agronomist, collaborates with the Department of Agriculture, Food and Environment of the University of Catania, Agronomy and Herbaceous Crops section. Researcher on ancient Sicilian grains.
