The food ‘fad’ for salted caramel has now largely reached ice cream too. How much does the ‘new’ taste affect the consumption of salt, already judged excessive (and harmful) by global health institutions? We calculated it by examining the recipe and nutritional profile of 11 tub ice creams sold in supermarkets. (1)
The recipe, coconut fat
In the fatty composition of the 11 ice creams examined, the recipe is divided into two macro-categories
– based on coconut oil, in addition to skimmed milk powder. In this recipe the first three ingredients are skimmed milk, sugar, coconut oil. We find it in the ice creams of Carrefour Extra, Coop, Sammontana, Tesori dell’arca,
– based only on milk derivatives, cream included. Only three out of 11 ice creams are made like this: Lec, Grom, Lidl.
Halfway we find two products (Häagen-dazs and Magnum), which start well (cream, skimmed and whole milk, butter) but also contain coconut oil.
The vegan Natur Mama and the Kri Krifinally, also give in by adding – to the almond milk the first and to the Greek yogurt (16%) the second – the omnipresent coconut oil.
The economical tropical grease – composed of 91,94% saturated fatty acids – is more and more present in industrial foods, as has also been observed in the ‘ginseng coffee’ category. (2)
Full of sugar
Sugars abound. On average, a quarter of the product (25,2%) is composed of sugars.
The maximum peak is joined by Treasures of the Ark (30%), followed closely by Kri Kri and Magnum (29%).
The lowest concentration (17%) of sugars belongs to Lec, which however also adds the sweetener erythritol.
Minimize sugar consumption, let us remember, is the EFSA recommendation to prevent chronic metabolic diseases, as well as pathologies during pregnancy, dental caries and other harmful effects on health. (3)
Salted caramel, but how much?
The daily dose of salt recommended by WHO must not exceed 5 grams. However, the average intake of salt and other sources of sodium in the European population is close to double the safety threshold, precisely because of their abundance in packaged foods such as those served in restaurants, as well as in domestic cooking.
Salted caramel ice creams in turn contain salt in non-negligible amounts, taking into account the usual generosity of the portions:
– the average concentration is 0,43 grams per 100 g of ice cream
– 4 ice creams exceed 0,50 grams of salt per 100 g of product, with a peak of 0,74 g of Natura Mama
– 7 products remain below 0,40 grams per 100 g.
Additives to avoid
The emulsifiers are enemies of the intestine and are correlated with a greater risk of cancer, as we have seen. (4,5) Among these, ‘mono- and diglycerides of fatty acids’ (E471) are present in 9 out of 11 ice creams.
Two exceptions: Grom and Häagen-dazs ice creams, which use egg yolk as a natural emulsifier.
The Magnum also stands out for the use of the yellow-orange dye E160b, which can cause strong allergic reactions.
Black palm, for additives, to Lidl ice cream. Emulsifier E471 and diphosphates (E450), harmful to the intestine and related to greater cardiovascular risk.
Synthetic flavourings are present in 4 out of 11 ice creams: Carrefour Extra, Kri Kri, Lidl and Magnum. The other products instead contain the much more valuable natural aromas. (6)
Marta Strinati
Footnotes
(1) The sampling was conducted on 10 and 11 July 2024 on e-commerce platforms and physical stores in Rome (Italy)
(2) Marta Strinati. Ginseng coffee, be careful of additives. 20 products compared. GIFT (Great Italian Food Trade).
(3) Marta Strinati. The harmful role of sugars in the diet, EFSA opinion. GIFT (Great Italian Food Trade).
(4) Marta Strinati, Dario Dongo. Some emulsifying additives alter the microbiota. Scientific study. GIFT (Great Italian Food Trade).
(5) Marta Strinati. Emulsifiers increase cancer risk. Study. GIFT (Great Italian Food Trade).
(6) Natural flavors, the lawyer Dario Dongo replies. FARE (Food and Agriculture Requirements). 16.10.18
Professional journalist since January 1995, he has worked for newspapers (Il Messaggero, Paese Sera, La Stampa) and periodicals (NumeroUno, Il Salvagente). She is the author of journalistic surveys on food, she has published the book "Reading labels to know what we eat".
