Pesto ‘Genoese-style’ from big Italian and German brands often contains pesticide residues and mineral oils. Laboratory tests conducted by Ökotest-the German consumer magazine-reveal the presence of these substances in 12 products out of the 20 tested. As well as that of problematic contact materials in the seals of 7 of the 20 jars. (1)
Mineral oils for all
All samples of the pesto jars analyzed by Ökotest contain mineral oil residues. Including the four organic products, of which three are Made in Germany with Italian sounding (i.e., false evocation of Italianity): ‘Ppura Genovese’ organic pesto, Rapunzel ‘Ligurian Pesto’ and Alnatura ‘Pesto verde’. (2) The only authentically Made in Italy organic seasoning, Tuscany’s La Selva ‘Pesto al Basilico con Pecorino,’ stands out favorably for the absence of the carcinogens MOAH(Mineral Oil Aromatic Hydrocarbons), despite containing other mineral oils.
Among the non-organic products, Buitoni’s (Nestlé) is the only one free of pesticide and herbicide residues, on par with the aforementioned four organic pestos. However, it too contains traces of mineral oil, as do unfortunately all the samples analyzed.
The Worst Made in Italy Pesties, from Barilla to De Cecco
The worst Made in Italypests, according to Ökotest’s analysis, are in order:
– Barilla, ‘Pesto alla Genovese. In addition to mineral oil, it contains residues of 10 different pesticides. Including deltamethrin, lethal to bees. It stands out for the greatest variety of molecules, a cocktail of agrotoxics,
– Bertolli (Unilever), ‘Pesto verde. Prominent among the ubiquitous mineral oils are aromatic hydrocarbons (MOAH), which include carcinogens. Residues of 5 different pesticides are also present,
– De Cecco, ‘Pesto alla Genovese. High levels of mineral oils, including MOAH. With residues of 7 different pesticides,
– Lidl, Italiamo, ‘Pesto alla Genovese. Mineral oils, including MOAH. Residues of 6 different pesticides,
– Saclà, ‘Pesto alla Genovese. High levels of mineral oils, including MOAH. Residues of 4 different pesticides.
Pesto Made in Germany, the worse it feels
Pesto is a staple of the Genoese culinary tradition. But it is among the most and worst imitated Made in Italy delicacies. And even in terms of contamination, Teutonic imitations do no better than Italian products.
Mineral oils and pesticides-with the exception of the latter for the three organic products-characterize all Made in Germany pestos. On which, among other things, a suspicious price alignment is observed. Still 0.99 euros for 190 g, about a third of the most expensive authentic Italian products. Outside Hengstenberg’s ‘Oro d’Italia Pesto verde’ and Mars’ ‘Mirácoli Pesto verde’.
‘Tolerated’ contaminations
Contaminations of the seasonings under consideration with mineral oils are of concern, from the point of view of food chemical safety. Especially taking into account the carcinogenicity risks already associated with exposure to MOAH through food. But the European Commission has so far limited itself to having its Joint Research Center (JRC) publish special ‘guidelines’ on methods of sampling, analysis and transmission of results. For the purpose of ‘monitoring’ food and MOCAs (Materials and Objects Intended to Come into Contact with Food) only. (3)
Levels of mineral oils in foods-in the absence of harmonized legal thresholds-should therefore be kept under control and reduced by applying general food safety assurance criteria. (4) Applying the ALARA(As Low As Reasonably Achievable) criterion. Pending appropriate scientific assessment of consumer risks and the establishment of specific limits. But the European Commission, as has been repeatedly reported, also appears disinclined to work on the chemical safety of food and MOCAs. (5)
The ‘tolerance’ of public health risks also unfortunately applies to agrotoxics, whose residues are always ‘within the law’. Neglecting the potential health damage caused by the co-presence of various pesticides, herbicides and herbicides (so-called cocktail effect).
The origin of contamination
The presence of pesticide residues is clearly related to the use of agrotoxics in the fields where the sauce ingredients come from. Less clear, however, is the origin of the petroleum derivatives found in all 20 jars of pesto.
According to Ökotest, mineral oil can end up in pesto through:
– Lubricants used in condiment processing plants,
– individual raw materials. Recall previous Ökotest analyses in 2019 that detected mineral oils in extra virgin olive oil from Monini, Bertolli, De Cecco, Primoli, La Selva, and Parmigiano Reggiano.
– Kerosene oil-based pesticides, exhaust gases.
Chemistry in jar lids
Another defect detected in the analyses is the presence of PVC / PVDC / chlorinated compounds in the seals of the pesto jar lids.
The additional input of unwanted, although unnecessary, chemistry is present in the lids of 7 jars:
– Buitoni,
– Barilla,
– Bertolli,
– De Cecco
– Saclà,
– BLM (Casa Romantica, Pesto alla Genovese),
– Mars (Mirácoli Pesto verde).
Recipes for faux pesto
Authentic pesto is a mirage. The original recipe consists of extra virgin olive oil, Genovese basil DOP), Grana Padano or Parmigiano Reggiano cheese, Sardinian pecorino, pine nuts, garlic, and sea salt. Locally sourced ingredients, beyond cheeses a few hundred nautical miles or miles away. And it is found in few products, as we shared in a previous market survey.
In contrast, the recipes of the products analyzed by Ökotest are depressing. Basil of unknown origin, unidentified hard cheese, cashews or walnuts in place of the more valuable pine nuts. With undue addition of potato chips, cornstarch, preservatives and other additives, flavorings. And rare use of extra virgin olive oil.
‘Only organic products from Ppura, Rapunzel, and Alnatura come close’ to the original recipe, explains Okotest, which nevertheless considers variations unorthodox for an Italian permissible. ‘Ppura and Rapunzel allow only the addition of a little lemon juice or citric acid. The Rapunzel product also contains a whopping 15 percent pine nuts, more than any other product in the test’.
Marta Strinati and Dario Dongo
Notes
(1) V. Ökotest,
Pesto-Test: Viele grüne Pestos mit Mineralöl und Pestiziden belastet.
, June 2020,
(2)Italian sounding involves the obligation to indicate the country of production of the food, according to reg. EU 1169/11. See in this regard the clarification offered on 27.2.15 by former Commissioner Vytenis Andriukaitis, in response to written question proposed by us through Hon. Elisabetta Gardini (see https://www.foodagriculturere quirements.com/archivio-notizie/europa-obbligo-di-indicare-il-paese-d-origine-sui-prodotti-italian-sounding). In these cases, it is also a duty to indicate the origin of the primary ingredient, as required by reg. EU 2018/775 (see https://www.greatitalianfoodtrade .it/etichette/origine-ingrediente-primario-reg-ue-2018-775-linee-guida-commissione-europea)
(3) S. Bratinova, E. Hoekstra (Editors). Guidance on sampling, analysis and data reporting for the monitoring of mineral oil hydrocarbons in food and food contact materials. Luxembourg: Publication Office of the European Union, 2019, SBN 978-92-76-00172-0, doi:2760/208879, JRC115694
(4) Reg. EC 178/02, so-called General Food Law, Article 14
(5) The starvation of the European Commission on the chemical safety of food and MOCAs is evident in several matrices of overt risk:
– acrylamide,
– BPA,
– Endocrine disruptors,
– the European Contact Materials Framework, to date a sieve,
– microplastics.
Professional journalist since January 1995, he has worked for newspapers (Il Messaggero, Paese Sera, La Stampa) and periodicals (NumeroUno, Il Salvagente). She is the author of journalistic surveys on food, she has published the book "Reading labels to know what we eat".
Dario Dongo, lawyer and journalist, PhD in international food law, founder of WIISE (FARE - GIFT - Food Times) and Égalité.
