German consumer monthly Ökotest publishes a comparative test of 20 whole wheat spaghetti references. Only 8 products are promoted with flying colors. In more than half of the sample, however, mycotoxins are present, in 5 cases at significant concentrations. And in 1 case worrisome pesticide residues. Barilla and Buitoni, but also retail giants ALDI and REWE and the historic organic brand Rapuntzel, among others, are problematic. And it is curious, an understatement, how large industrial and retail groups can put products on the market with serious food safety flaws.
Official public controls and self-monitoring are evidently lacking.
Whole wheat spaghetti, a health food
Whole wheat noodles represent an emblem of health food. They contribute large amounts of dietary fiber, the daily consumption of which in the recommended amounts (30 grams/day) provides benefits widely demonstrated in scientific literature. As well as containing four times as many minerals, compared with non-wholemeal pasta (from refined semolina). Especially iron, magnesium, zinc, and B vitamins.
However, whole grains are at greater risk of dragging unwanted and often harmful substances with them. Such as mold, heavy metals, mineral oils, and pesticide residues.
The mycotoxin risk
The molds detected by the German laboratory commissioned by Ökotest are mycotoxins T2 and HT2, which are toxic to blood cells and the immune system. They belong to the trichothecenes, the same group as the better known but less dangerous deoxynivalenol (DON).
Mycotoxins form naturally on wheat (and other grains) under certain weather or storage conditions and are not removed by cooking. Therefore, ad hoc prevention is needed throughout the entire supply chain, as one of the leading experts on the subject, Dr. Carlo Brera of the Superior Institute of Health (ISS), explained to us in a previous interview. Precautions probably taken by the producers of the 8 whole wheat noodles found to be clean. (1)
Mycotoxins, the thresholds not to be exceeded
The Tolerable Daily Intake(TDI) for mycotoxins T2 and HT2-expressed in nanograms of contaminant per kg of body weight-was defined by EFSA, in 2017, as 0.02 µg/kg. (2)
This threshold, according to Ökotest, is easily exceeded through consumption of some of the whole-grain noodles tested. In this regard, however, it is worth noting two elements:
– on the one hand, Ökotest considers a ‘realistic portion size’ (125 g of pasta) objectively higher than Italian consumption habits,
– on the other hand, EFSA’s toxicological assessments are performed on adult individuals and do not consider the greater vulnerability of children and young people. As pointed out by Dr. Carlo Brera in our previous interview, cited above.
Worst in the test
Analyses conducted by the German laboratory indicate:
– a ‘very high’ content of T2 and HT2 toxins to the extent that it exceeds TDI with a 125-gram serving of whole-wheat pasta–in 5 references. Two conventional products (Newlat and Buitoni) and three German brand organic pastas (Alnatura, Aldi Sud, and BioZentrale),
– nonetheless significant levels of the mycotoxins in question, to the point of exceeding the TDI indicated by EFSA by more than half in a single plate of pasta (125 grams), in six other products. Two conventional whole-grain noodles-Barilla and Tegut-and four organic German brands. Rila, Denree, Rapunzel (organic pioneer in Germany) and Rewe.
Buitoni (Nestlé) stands out as the worst product among those analyzed. In fact, residues, albeit within limits, of two insecticides that are very toxic to bees (cypermethrin and pirimiphos-methyl) were also found in his whole-grain noodles. Paradoxically, the same brand, in a previous test, was instead found to be the only one offering a non-organic Genoese pesto free of pesticide residues.
Mycotoxins, the controls that are missing
The outcome of the test under review induces some reflections on the (in)sufficiency of official public controls, as well as self-monitoring, on mycotoxin levels in categories of food exposed to the relative risk. All the more so where one considers the extreme severity of health hazards associated with their contributions.
The Italian Ministry of Health , in its ‘Report on monitoring of unregulated agricultural contaminants and natural plant toxins. Year 2019‘, dated 26.6.20, refers to the ‘indicative levels for the sum of T-2/HT-2 toxins in cereals and cereal products‘ given in European Commission Recommendation 2013/165. (3)
Only 15 pasta samples were found to have undergone T-2 and HT-2 mycotoxin analysis as part of official public inspections in Italy in 2019. (4) Not many, an understatement, compared to the volumes of pasta production in the Bel Paese. Nor do their outcomes seem reassuring.
‘For many foods included in the recommendation, the LOQ value [Limite di Quantificazione] appears to be at or above the recommendation’s indicative level.’ (Min. Sal. DGISAN, Office 6, report 26.6.20 cited above)
Are you all right? Maybe not
Marta Strinati and Dario Dongo
Notes
(1) Below is the list of 8 samples for which trace presence or complete absence of mycotoxins was determined in the laboratory:
– Bio Bio Vollkorn Spaghetti (Net Marken-Discount)
– Bioladen Spaghetti Vollkorn (Weiling)
– Combino Bio Vollkorn Spaghetti (Lidl)
– Edeka Bio Vollkorn Spaghetti (Edeka)
– K-Bio Vollkorn Spaghetti (Kaufland)
– Naturata Dinkel Vollkorn Spaghetti, Demeter (Naturata)
– Nudelmacher Dinkel Vollkorn Spaghetti, Demeter (Spaichinger Nudelmacher)
– Zabler Paradiso Bio Wholewheat Spaghettini (Bernhard Zabler)
(2) V. D. Arcella, P. Gergelova. M. L. Innocenti, H. Steinkellner. Human and animal dietary exposure to T-2 and HT-2 toxin. EFSA Journal, 14.8.17, https://doi.org/10.2903/j.efsa.2017.4972
(3) The levels stipulated in EC Recommendation 165/2013, it should be noted, may result in exposure well above that later indicated by EFSA. In fact, the cited recommendation refers to an indicative level of 25 μg/kg (sum of T-2 and HT-2) in the paste. Consequently, the consumption of 100 g of pasta with this level of contamination by a 60 kg individual exposes him or her to more than twice the amount of toxins than the TDI indicated by EFSA in 2017
(4) The aforementioned Ministry of Health report refers to the detection of T-2 and HT-2 mycotoxins in a total of 119 samples, in Italy, in 2019. In addition to the 15 samples of pasta, 20 cereal grains, 22 baked goods, 26 infant foods with cereals and formulas, 6 breakfast cereals, 3 corn oil, 26 corn/grain flours, 1 green pepper
Professional journalist since January 1995, he has worked for newspapers (Il Messaggero, Paese Sera, La Stampa) and periodicals (NumeroUno, Il Salvagente). She is the author of journalistic surveys on food, she has published the book "Reading labels to know what we eat".
Dario Dongo, lawyer and journalist, PhD in international food law, founder of WIISE (FARE - GIFT - Food Times) and Égalité.
