Organoleptic defects and contaminants are widespread in extra virgin olive oil available at the supermarket. French consumer magazine 60 Millions de Consommateurs proves this with a new test, published in its June 2023 issue.
Testing of 24 bottles of extra virgin olive oil.
The comparison involved 24 bottles of extra virgin olive oil, 11 of which were organic. All references were tested by laboratory analysis and the magazine’s panel tasting (published by the National Institute of Consumer Affairs).
The result is discouraging. Although analytical parameters-such as fatty acid and sterol (plant lipid) composition-are regular, organoleptic defects and chemical contamination, which are dangerous to health, are rampant.
Rancid and musty taste
Gustatory and olfactory examination flunks half of the sample. Experts detected rancid, earthy, moist flavors in 6 bottles and a musty smell in 3 others. Serious defects, causing the oil to be downgraded from extra virgin to virgin. (1)
The cause of these alterations can be attributed to process inefficiencies, such as insufficient washing of the olives or their storage in a humid environment conducive to mold growth.
Contamination by hazardous plastics in 96% of samples
Very bad, in fact worse, is the outcome of the search for contaminants.
In 23 out of 24 references (96% of samples), one to three plasticizers were found, including phthalates classified as endocrine disruptors and reprotoxic, i.e., harmful to fertility (diethylhexyl phthalate, DEHP, and dibutyl phthalate, DBP).
Suspicions are mounting over the inappropriate use in olive growing of plastic tarpaulins.
MOSH and MOHA in 5 products
Five products were also found to be contaminated with trace amounts of mineral oil hydrocarbons (MOSH and MOAH), which are carcinogenic and genotoxic. Among them, three products were found to be contaminated close to the threshold (2 mg/kg) introduced in May 2022 by the European Commission:
- Simplement bon et bio (Aldi),
- Bio Village (E. Leclerc brand),
- Carapelli bio.
The source of this contamination can be found in environmental pollution, as well as exposure of olives to emissions from agricultural machinery and lubricants. The phenomenon is not new, as seen, but the supply chain operators do not seem interested in remedying it (2,3,4,5).
A convenience store stands out on the podium
Among the 24 samples of extra virgin olive oil tested, only one was free of contaminants, Lidl’s Primadonna (origin Spain), with a fruity and well-balanced taste, sold in France at 6.99 €/l.
In second and third place in the ranking are.
- Reflets de France (Carrefour), made from French PDO olives from Provence and sold at €31.30/l,
- Le Château d’Estoublon Mogador, origin France, priced at 62.40 €/l.
Just off the podium, but first among organic, are Carrefour organic, EU and non-EU olives. Sold at 9.98 €/l, it deserves an insufficiency because it is contaminated with plasticizers.
Marta Strinati
Photo by Barbara Jackson from Pixabay
Notes
(1) Dario Dongo, Giulia Pietrollini. Marketing of olive oils, reg. EU 2022/2104. GIFT (Great Italian Food Trade). 20.11.22
(2) Dario Dongo, Marina De Nobili. Extra virgin olive oil, dangers and flaws. Ökotest’s investigation. GIFT (Great Italian Food Trade). 11.6.19
(3) Marta Strinati. Extra virgin olive oil at the supermarket, the Que Choisir test. GIFT (Great Italian Food Trade). 2.7.21
(4) Marta Strinati. Contaminated extra virgin olive oil. The Öko-Test Comparison. GIFT (Great Italian Food Trade).1.5.22
(5) Giulia Pietrollini. EFSA public consultation for opinion on MOH mineral oil hydrocarbons in food. GIFT (Great Italian Food Trade). 24.3.23
Professional journalist since January 1995, he has worked for newspapers (Il Messaggero, Paese Sera, La Stampa) and periodicals (NumeroUno, Il Salvagente). She is the author of journalistic surveys on food, she has published the book "Reading labels to know what we eat".
