Endocrine disruptors-contaminants responsible for reproductive and thyroid damage-are also found in cosmetics and clothing. As well as in food contact materials, in many everyday objects and in several agrotoxics (1,2,3,4).
The scientific review of the Istituto Superiore di Sanità (ISS)-which participates in the activities of selecting and evaluating substances with possible or suspected endocrine effects and identifying appropriate risk management measures-at a glance below. (5)
Endocrine disruptors in garments and other textiles
The clothes we wear-as well as couches, bedding, towels, and any other fabrics that furnish homes-can contain chemical contaminants.
The use of chemistry in the textile industry begins as early as the cleaning stage of natural fibers. And it continues in the processing to which the fabrics are subjected. In fabric dyeing and progressive bleaching techniques, as well as treatments with stain, crease and waterproofing functions.
Flame retardants and leather
Endocrine disrupting action has been established in several categories of substances, such as:
– flame retardants (polybrominated and perfluoroalkyl compounds), characterized by both high persistence and the ability to alter the action and metabolism of steroid and thyroid hormones,
– alkylphenols, used in the tanning of hides, with estrogenic action,
– pentachlorophenols, endowed with antibacterial and antifungal action, release dioxins on contact with heat.
Plastic inserts and metal parts
Additional sources of toxicological risk arise from other materials used in the garment industry. Such as plastic parts-applied to shirts, bags, and shoes to make them softer and more flexible-that often contain phthalates. (6)
In contrast, some metals, such as nickel in hinges and other components and chromium VI, which resides in some leather products following tanning processes, present risks associated with skin contact. Allergic reactions and possible systemic toxicity, associated with endocrine mechanisms.
‘Nickel is a reproductive toxicant in rodents, acting on the hypothalamic-pituitary-gonadal axis as well as being an estrogen receptor agonist. Chromium VI, a known human carcinogen, can impair reproductive maturation by disrupting steroid biosynthesis.’ (5)
Data shortage
The elimination of hazardous substances from tissues is far away. Toxicological information is still scarce, a screening system to detect potential endocrine disruptors is lacking, and labeling is deficient in these respects.
ISS plays an important role, along with other agencies (in France, Belgium, the Netherlands, Denmark, and Sweden), in selecting substances for evaluation of endocrine disruptors and other possible toxicities. Looking forward to effective coordination by the European Commission, on these and other chemical safety issues. (7)
Endocrine disruptors in cosmetics
Cosmetics deserve equal attention in the analysis of endocrine disruptors. In this case, the substances are in prolonged, often daily, contact with the skin and mucous membranes. Creams, soaps, sunscreens, perfumes, toothpastes, lipsticks, makeup, nail polish, etc.
The European Commission is assisted in cosmetic safety assessments by the Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety (SCCS). With which ISS also collaborates, indicating substances for priority evaluation.
Cosmetic regulations and aggregate exposure risks
The ‘cosmetics regulation’, reg. EC 1223/2009, prohibits the use of substances classified as carcinogenic, mutagenic or toxic to reproduction (CMR) 1A, 1B and 2. With the exception of those placed in category 2 that do not pose a risk based on a specific assessment by the SCCS.
‘Even for substances in cosmetics, special attention must be paid to the possibility of aggregate exposure. In fact, for some substances (e.g., aluminum-based, retinol-based, or zinc-based) the presence as ingredients in cosmetics constitutes only a fraction of the total exposure, in addition to dietary and/or environmental sources’ (1,5).
Hazardous Ingredients
The issue of endocrine disruptors in cosmetics was specifically addressed in a report published in 2018, which considers several cosmetic ingredients already evaluated by the SCCS because of their potential endocrine disrupting properties.
In the list include some parabens (cosmetic preservatives), triclosan (a preservative and deodorant), UV filters, homosalate, 4-methylbenzylidene camphor and 3-benzylidene camphor, benzophenones (mainly used to protect cosmetics from the effects of UV light), melatonin (used as an antioxidant), resorcinol (found in hair dyes), and cyclomethicone (a silicone compound that promotes the spreadability of skin and hair lotions).
Children, pregnant and lactating women the most exposed individuals
Risk assessment also requires exposure estimation. For cosmetics, we consider the mode of use, concentration of the active ingredient, contact time and dermal absorption, which is associated with systemic exposure, that is, the presence of the substance at a site other than the contact site once it has entered the body.
Particular care is required when the cosmetic is intended for children, given that the mechanisms and targets of endocrine disruptors (thyroid, pubertal development) are of particular relevance to pediatric health. As well as to pregnant and lactating women because of the possible transfer of substances through the placenta and to infants.
‘Even for cosmetics, as for clothing, the potential exposure of the general population must be considered, and EIs (endocrine disruptors, ed.) must be identified early and replaced with substances without important hazardous characteristics for human health and the environment’ (5).
Chemical safety, the underestimated risks
The chemical safety of food, agrochemicals and everyday objects is confirmed to be one of the most critical and unfortunately underestimated areas of research by the European Commission and member states. Until when?
Marta Strinati and Dario Dongo
Notes
(1) Marta Strinati, Dario Dongo. Chemical toxicity of food contact materials, researchers appeal. GIFT(Great Italian Food Trade). 12.3.20, https://www.greatitalianfoodtrade.it/imballaggi/tossicità-chimica-dei-materiali-a-contatto-con-gli-alimenti-appello-dei-ricercatori
(2) Marta Strinati. Chemicals banned in kitchen appliances. The KEMI report. FT (Food Times). 18.3.21, https://www.greatitalianfoodtrade.it/sicurezza/chimica-proibita-negli-elettrodomestici-da-cucina-il-rapporto-kemi
(3) Dario Dongo, Luca Foltran. Toxic chemicals in everyday objects, the English report. GIFT(Great Italian Food Trade). 7/20/19, https://www.greatitalianfoodtrade.it/salute/sostanze-chimiche-tossiche-in-oggetti-di-uso-quotidiano-il-rapporto-inglese
(4) Alberto Mantovani. Toxic cocktails? Risk assessment of multiple exposures to endocrine disruptors. FT (Food Times). 9/28/20, https://www.greatitalianfoodtrade.it/sicurezza/cocktail-tossici-valutazione-del-rischio-delle-esposizioni-multiple-a-interferenti-endocrini
(5) Tiziana Catone, Leonello Attias, Alberto Mantovani.(2021), Endocrine disruptors in cosmetics and gar ments. Not Ist Super Sanità 2021;34(3):7-11 https://www.iss.it/documents/20126/0/Interferenti+endocrini+in+cosmetici+e+abbigliamento.pdf/f6a226d7-5061-655d-8032-8ae876b0cb57?t=1618819796230
(6) Dario Dongo, Luca Foltran. Phthalates and BPA in the human organism. FT (Food Times). 9.11.18, https://www.greatitalianfoodtrade.it/imballaggi/ftalati-e-bpa-nell-organismo-umano
(7) Marta Strinati. Endocrine disruptors, a new database reveals Brussels’ omissions. GIFT(Great Italian Food Trade). 12.6.20, https://www.greatitalianfoodtrade.it/sicurezza/interferenti-endocrini-una-nuova-banca-dati-rivela-le-omissioni-di-bruxelles
Professional journalist since January 1995, he has worked for newspapers (Il Messaggero, Paese Sera, La Stampa) and periodicals (NumeroUno, Il Salvagente). She is the author of journalistic surveys on food, she has published the book "Reading labels to know what we eat".
Dario Dongo, lawyer and journalist, PhD in international food law, founder of WIISE (FARE - GIFT - Food Times) and Égalité.
