Great chaos reigns supreme over the Parma and San Daniele PDO ham supply chain, in the discord between production reality and production specifications.
In the turmoil between operators, MiPAAF and the inspection bodies, among other things, the distortion from competition in favor of Coldiretti’s power system emerges.
Introduction
You would think the time has come for a showdown-after the skirmishes of ‘Prosciuttopoli’-between the custom of working with ‘high-yield’ pigs (fast growth, more weight, and less fat) and the need to preserve the superior quality of tradition (with pigs that grow slowly, weigh less, and have more fat).
The problem contingent is to ensure the continuity of production following a sudden reminder from the Ministry of Agriculture, Food and Forestry (MiPAAF) to comply with PDO specifications, with evidence of nearly 7 million thighs (27,680 batches from 125 pigs) non-compliant and notice of ban on the use of 19 established genetics.
Rather, in a broader perspective, after bringing order to 360 degrees and setting up a system of controls appropriate to the times, work should be done on a PDO differentiation strategy. Following the successful examples of Iberian hams (1) and also, in its own way, Parmigiano Reggiano.
1) THE FACTS.
1.1) Ham 1
The ‘Prosciuttopoli’ scandal broke out following an ICQRF inspection in February 2017 of PDO and PGI pork products inspection institutions. Investigations later ordered by the Pordenone and Turin Public Prosecutors’ Offices had revealed the widespread use of Danish semen to impregnate sows. A significant proportion of PDO hams were thus found to be derived from animals of different genetics than those imposed by the specifications. (2)
The two inspection bodies designated by the Consortia-IPQ and INEQ, Parma Quality Institute and Northeast Quality Institute-were suspended and commissioned by ICQRF (Central Inspectorate for Quality Control and Fraud Repression, MiPAAF), in May 2018. Six months later, the ministry lifted the suspension, citing that the situation had essentially returned to normal following the commissioning.
1.2) Ham 2
The swine – a Report report broadcast on Rai3, on 5/20/19 – denounced the persistence of the fraud that had already emerged in previous years. (3) Referring specifically to about 1 million hams falsely certified as PDO and a disarmingemail from one of the board members of the Parma Quality Institute. ‘Soon we will all be fined in addition to being sued for fraud!” wrote the IPQ board member.
Inspectors should have levied fines of 2,000 euros on every pig with an average live weight (per batch) over 176kg. As well as having to exclude the relevant carcasses from the PDO circuit. But the slaughterhouses’ statements, which should have recorded any non-compliance, show no trace of it. And the emergence of fraud in trade, among other things, threatened to jeopardize PDO culatelli, coppe and salami as well. (4)
1.3) Reform of the control system
The Parma Quality Institute (IPQ), in January 2019, had presented the Consortium with an outline of a strict control manual, shared with MiPAAF. (5) However, ASSICA, the meat industry association representing slaughterhouses and ham factories, had opposed this project, which was in fact rejected. And the IPQ team that had worked on it was being eliminated. (6)
Meanwhile, the IPQ appeals board decided to readmit 2 million thighs excluded by IPQ management as non-compliant to the PDO circuit. (7) And the members of the Prosciutto di Parma PDO Consortium decreed the closure of IPQ to assign inspections to CSQA, as of 1.1.20.
The new control manual, prepared by the ‘system’ in agreement with MiPAAF, is clearly intended to prevent disputes. To the point that batches that do not meet the maximum average live weight threshold (8) set in the specifications can be ‘saved’ on an assumption with no scientific basis, the slaughter yield of up to 86 percent. That is, from a 100 kg live animal, 86 kg of meat would be ‘accounted for’. (9)
1.4) Ham 3?
On 6.8.21 CSQA and IFCQ, the Friulian Quality Control Institute, sent a note to supply chain operators and their representatives on the ‘Control Plans for Prosciutto di Parma and Prosciutto di San Daniele PDOs.’
‘As a result ofthe supervisory activity carried out by the Pref2/ICQRF Office on CSQA and IFCQ, the need has arisen to give different application to some areas of the Control Plans of the PDOs in question, namely: (…)
During 2020, Non-Compliance measures were contested concerning all batches of non-compliant average live weight delivered by the farmer to the slaughterhouse in the first 10 months
of the year.
From January 2020 to October 2020, the following were ascertained. n. 14,596 out-of-weight matches delivered by no. 2,125 breeders. IFCQ and CSQA notified each affected livestock farmer of a cumulative Nonconformity measure of multiple batches. (…)
November 2020 to June 2021, The batches ascertained to be out of weight are no. 13,084 for no. 1,971 breeders recognized. In execution of this, we anticipate that 13,084 non-compliance orders will be served on 1,971 affected breeders in the near future.’
1.5) Reinforced Control Measures
Consolidation of contested nonconformities ‘implies ľtaking by the Certification Body of Reinforced Control Measures (MCR).’ CSQA and IFCQ must therefore, as directed by MiPAAF, conduct ‘at least one Supplementary Field Visit for each batch of non-compliant average live weight‘. They will therefore be performed:
– 14,596 MCR for out-of-weight batches found from January to October 2020,
– 13,084 MCR at the close of the November 2020-June 2021 period.
Enhanced control measures will be carried out at the expense of operators, based on the tariff systems approved by Mi.P.A.A.F.
1.6) Regularization of non-compliant batches
‘The Vigilance Bureau [MiPAAF, ed.] has also indicated what the yield to be applied should one make use of the weight regularization procedure n. 2: This is about the actual yield of the match and not the theoretical one, as understood so far.
Therefore, according to what is indicated, in order to regularize the weight of the batch, the operator/slaughterer should proceed to exclude carcasses based on the actual slaughter yield of the batch. (10)
The indications received by us, described above, should be understood to be immediately applicable, however, given the scope of the same, we represent ľthe initiation of an interlocution with the relevant ministerial offices‘ (letter 6.8.21 from CSQA and IFCQ to operators).
2) THE RULES.
2.1) Parma and San Daniele PDO ham specifications.
Parma and San Daniele prosciutto production specifications refer to rearing techniques that ensure ‘moderate daily growths” so that the animals achieve an optimal meat-to-fat ratio that allows their carcasses to qualify in the central classes of the EU classification system. (11) However, the genetic types used must ensure that, with good efficiencies, an average live weight per batch of 160 kg (with +10% tolerance) is achieved.
Fat cover-that is, the thickness of fat on the outside of the fresh trimmed thigh, measured vertically at the head of the femur (subthigh), should be around:
– 20 mm, for fresh legs to be used in the production of Parma hams between 7 and 9 kg,
– 30 mm in fresh legs intended to produce Parma ham weighing >9 kg.
2.2) The grease requirements
Fat is essential to ensure the characteristic qualities of Parma and San Daniele PDO ham, sweetness and smooth texture. Adequate fat cover on the outer thigh-defined as 22 mm and 17 mm, respectively, in the new Parma and San Daniele specifications-actually acts as a barrier against salt penetration into the ham.
The optimal balance of fat and lean meat thus ensures the smoothness of the ham. Conversely, lean meat is permeable and moist, to the point that it easily absorbs salt and exudes (thus drying out) beyond repair.
The traditional fatty pig-although considered a ‘heavy pig‘ in comparison with the Iberian semi-bradish suids-grows slowly and does not exceed about 160 kg, as noted. High-yielding genetic types, on the other hand, rapidly assimilate abundant food rations and grow to and well over 200 kg in 9 months, with lean (muscle) outweighing fat.
2.3) Genetics
The so-called genetic types decree, adopted by the MiPAAF on Dec. 5, 2019, established the rules to be followed for compiling and updating the genetics allowed in the supply chains of Italian PDO and PGI products of animal origin. (12) And it was updated, by DM 10.6.21, for the specific purpose of defining the timing of the exit from the circuit of genetic types declared non-compliant. (13)
The standard introduced by the ministry prescribes that the ‘heavy pig‘ to be used exclusively for a range of PDOs and PGIs for pigs must come exclusively from genetics approved by CREA (Council for Research in Agriculture and Analysis of Agricultural Economics, MiPAAF) or Coldiretti, through ANAS (National Association of Swine Breeders), which it controls.
2.4) Distortion of competition by decree. #CleanSpades
L’11.8.21 representatives of the supply chain, namely breeders – AVA (Associazione Veneta Allevatori), Assosuini, Liberi Agricoltori, Alleanza Cooperative Italiane, Confagricoltura, CIA (Coldiretti excluded) – and interprofession (Gran Suino Italiano, Unapros), slaughterhouses and processors (Assica, UNAItalia, Assalzoo) – have written to Minister Stefano Patuanelli a petition aimed at ensuring the continued use of genetics in use for at least two decades, for sows and boars.
In fact, the ministry has notified the interested parties of the rejection notice of as many as 19 genetic types hitherto allowed into the PDO circuit, based on entrustments offered by its own administration over the years. According to the breeders, about 80 percent of the sow herd and 85 percent of the male lines would be incompatible for the PDO productions that motivate their use.
Instead, the decree excludes from evaluation only the genetic types selected by ANAS, as the recognized breeding organization that implements the genetic programs of the breeds in the Herd Book. And as if that were not enough, Anas itself – controlled by Coldiretti, ça va sans dir – evaluates the genetic types proposed by third parties with whom it competes, as a producer of genetics.
Interim conclusions
The great chaos unfortunately stems from clientelistic and informal management of the breeding system, which has served to produce hams from high-yielding pigs, valued as PDOs but often deviating from the strict specifications that the chain itself had shared.
The ham-covered eyes, in carcass classification, served to let through all that was found to be irregular with Prosciuttopoli. But the new specifications for Parma and San Daniele PDO hams will no longer allow the use of that measurement uncertainty introduced at the time (to save a share of carcasses otherwise excluded from the PDO chain).
Ergo, a not insignificant share of carcasses will no longer be able to supply the circuit of PDO and PGI products from heavy pigs.
One doubts, however, that in the great chaos-a forerunner of the Anas-Coldiretti dictatorship over genetic types-someone has at least simulated the damage that the immediate exclusion of 19 genetics will cause to the system-Country.
Dario Dongo
Cover cartoon from John Hawkins, Pig class, 2016
Notes
(1) Types of ham. Consorcio Serrano.
https://consorcioserrano.es/it/prosciutto-consorcio-serrano/tipi-di-prosciutto/
(2) Danish pigs in the PDO ham supply chain: plea deals and Report cameras. The Republic. 5/18/19, https://parma.repubblica.it/cronaca/2019/05/18/news/prosciutti_patteggiamenti_maiali_dop-226525240/
(3) Emanuele Bellano, Alessia Cerantola, Greta Orsi. Swine. Report, Rai3. 5/20/19, https://bit.ly/2Ww25uT
(4) Roberto La Pira. Thirty-five percent of prosciutto crudo from Parma and San Daniele is fake. A giant scam. Consortia and certification bodies in the storm. Food Fact. 10.6.19, https://ilfattoalimentare.it/prosciuttopoli-parma-san-daniele.html
(5) Enrico Gotti. Parma Quality Institute. New inspection plan kicks off. Parma Gazette. 17.1.19, https://www.gia.pr.it/download/15949/2016/07/Istituto-parma-Qualita-Al-via-il-nuovo-piano-di-controlli.pdf
(6) Parma Quality Institute, new director general elected. Qualivita. 6/19/19, https://www.qualivita.it/news/istituto-parma-qualita-eletto-il-nuovo-direttore-generale/
(7) Roberto La Pira. Prosciuttopoli: 2 million PDO hams from Parma and San Daniele in delicatessen that ministry inspectors deemed unfit. Food Fact. 10.7.19, https://ilfattoalimentare.it/prosciutti-dop-icqrf.html
(8) The weight of live pigs intended for the production of PDO Parma and San Daniele hams, to be calculated on the average of each batch of animals arriving at the slaughterhouse, must correspond to 160 kg +10%. That is to say, the batch of animals with average weight over 176kg should not be admitted
(9) Applying a slaughter yield of 86 percent is effectively masking the excessive weight of the pigs used when calculating mass balances between the meat and the animals from which it comes. Previously, as of 2012, a yield of 82% was applied
(10) MiPAAF, in now requiring ‘real slaughter yield‘, decrees an end to the unrealistic ‘86 percent yield‘ (see note 9) and urges the exact classification of carcasses. Data loggers, already prescribed for this purpose at the time, were never applied in slaughterhouses until their only theoretical requirement was lifted in 2018
(11) Dario Dongo. Prosciutto San Daniele DOP, the consequences of the new specification. GIFT(Great Italian Food Trade). 10.4.21, https://www.greatitalianfoodtrade.it/mercati/prosciutto-san-daniele-dop-le-conseguenze-del-nuovo-disciplinare
(12) Genetic types decree, DM 5.12.19 (in OJ 20.12.19, General Series, No. 298). https://bit.ly/3t1scFR
(13) DM 10.6.21. Amendment to the Decree of December 5, 2019, on the procedures for the admission and control of genetic types that meet the criteria of heavy pig productions indicated in the specifications of PDOs and PGIs (in OJ 23.6.21, General Series, No. 148). https://bit.ly/2WygYg7
Dario Dongo, lawyer and journalist, PhD in international food law, founder of WIISE (FARE - GIFT - Food Times) and Égalité.
