‘Artisanal ice cream’ is the leitmotif that stands out on the signs of ice cream parlors everywhere, even outside Italy with extensive use of so-called Italian sounding. But the concept of Italian craftsmanship, in ice cream even more than in other foods, lends itself to various interpretations and possible misunderstandings.
A bold bill has been submitted to the Senate of the Italian Republic with the aim of defining the production requirements for ‘high quality Italian artisanal gelato,’ which could thus be distinguished from the melee.
High quality Italian artisan ice cream, the bill
The bill establishes a definition of ‘high quality Italian artisan gelato’ and indicates the skills needed to define ‘the figure of the artisan gelato maker and the artisan gelato maker.
The initiative, as is evident, does not aspire to reform the modus operandi of the thousands of ‘artisanal’ ice cream parlors already in operation. Instead, it aims to introduce a special award of excellence to operators who wish to follow a special specification.
Chemical flavorings and preservatives banned
The delicacy thus defined is tied to the use of ‘fresh and genuine’ raw materials. According to the tradition of creams (eggs, milk), milk base (cream, milk) and sorbets (fruit, sugar).
Synthetic ingredients are banned. It is expressly prohibited to add synthetic sweeteners, chemical (i.e., not ‘natural’) flavorings, artificial colors. Only natural spirulina-based colors, for example, for the ‘Smurf flavor’.
Natural ice cream, without semi-finished products
‘ High-quality Italian artisan ice cream ‘ does not include the use of hydrogenated or partially hydrogenated fats, emulsifiers (e.g., mono- and di-glycerides of fatty acids), GMOs.
Off-limits
, of course, the use of the semi-finished products on which most ice cream parlors rely. In fact, the production specification for ‘high quality Italian artisan gelato’ corresponds to the requirements set out in Technical Specification ISO/TS 19657 (‘Definitions and technical criteria for food ingredients to be considered natural‘).
Farewell to the taste of Nutella, Oreos, M&Ms and the like
The overall quality of ice cream also depends on the characteristics of other foods that are added to it to characterize its taste. Which in turn should meet the criteria of ‘naturalness’ and Italian tradition established for other ingredients.
Cookies, creams, candied fruit, nougat, etc. can therefore have no place in ‘high-quality Italian artisan gelato’ when they contain hydrogenated fats, palm and palm kernel oil, coconut and canola oils. This would eliminate the ‘Nutella’, ‘Oreo’, ‘M&Ms’ and similar flavors.
More ice cream, less air
The preparation of ‘high quality Italian artisanal ice cream’ is to be made only by cold whisking, the ddl prescribes. With express prohibition of forced air insufflation, as is customary in industrial ice cream and the like.
Cold freezing involves stirring and freezing the mixture at the same time, resulting in the natural-rather than forced-incorporation of air that gives softness to the ice cream.
Basic ingredients and savory sanctions
The ingredients that characterize the basics of ‘high-quality Italian artisanal ice cream’ must be present in predefined minimum quantities. At least 6% by weight egg yolk in yellow cream base, 8% cream in white cream base.
Italy’s high quality artisan gelato-making tradition should be protected through administrative fines of 2,000 euros to 10,000 euros, according to the proponents. Unless the act constitutes a crime, as might occur, for example, in cases of fraud in trade.
Marta Strinati and Dario Dongo
Notes
(1) Bill on the initiative of Senators Nencini, Grimani, Garavini, Cucca, Astorre, and Viti, reported to the Presidency on 9/22/20. Provisions for the production and definition of high quality Italian artisanal gelato as well as for the definition of the professional figure of the artisan gelato maker and the artisan gelato maker. V. http://www.senato.it/service/PDF/PDFServer/BGT/01178007.pdf
Professional journalist since January 1995, he has worked for newspapers (Il Messaggero, Paese Sera, La Stampa) and periodicals (NumeroUno, Il Salvagente). She is the author of journalistic surveys on food, she has published the book "Reading labels to know what we eat".
Dario Dongo, lawyer and journalist, PhD in international food law, founder of WIISE (FARE - GIFT - Food Times) and Égalité.
Related post
Smarties, M&M’s, Bounty, Twix. Ice cream also contaminated with carcinogenic ethylene oxide
Bisphenol A toxicity, EFSA declares a public health alert
Listeria alert on desserts, Müller recalls them 12 days after expiration date
Honey, fruit juices, jams and marmalades, dehydrated milk. Proposals for reform of marketing standards in EU
